Yarns are classified structurally
They are divided into the following categories.
Monofilament: refers to a continuous single yarn of very long length.
Compound yarn: A bundle of two or more monofilaments joined together.
Twisted yarns: Yarns formed by twisting compound yarns.
Compound twisted yarn: Twisted yarn is formed by merging and twisting one
or more times.
Deformed yarns: Chemical fiber yarns are deformed to give them curls,
spirals, loops and other characteristics. The purpose of the process is to
increase fluffiness stretchability and elasticity. According to the performance
characteristics, there are usually three kinds of elastic yarn, bulky yarn and
network yarn.
Single yarn: A single, continuous length formed from short fibers by
spinning.
Strand: Two or more single yarns are combined and twisted to form. If two
single yarns are combined, they are called double strands, and three or more are
called multiple strands. When the strands are combined and twisted, they become
double twisted strands.
Fancy yarn: A yarn with special appearance and color made by a special
process, including fancy yarn and fancy decorative yarn. It is formed by
twisting core yarn, decorative yarn and solid yarn on fancy twisting machine,
with special appearance form or color such as fiber knot, bamboo knot, ring,
braid, spiral and wave on the surface.
Bulky yarn: Bulky yarn is a voluminous yarn with high looseness processed
by using the heat shrinkage (thermoplastic) of prolene fiber. The yarn is made
by mixing low shrinkage properties with high shrinkage properties of liposomal
fibers in a certain ratio and then relaxing to heat set the shape. In this way,
the high-shrinkage fibers shrink a lot and form a yarn core, while the
low-shrinkage fibers shrink less and are squeezed on the surface, thus making a
fluffy yarn.
Cored yarn: A yarn formed by wrapping filament or staple fiber yarn as a
core with other fibers or yarns.
Next, we will focus on fancy yarns, which are used more often in home
textiles.
Fancy yarn: It is a single-strand yarn with structural and morphological
variations. It is spun by using special techniques or devices in the carding,
roving and spinning processes to change the structure and form of the yarn,
resulting in a "dotted" or "knotted" pattern on the yarn surface. For example,
the surface of knotted yarn has granular dots attached to the surface of the
yarn; the surface of bamboo yarn has interrupted coarse details; the surface of
interrupted AB yarn has one section of single-color yarn and the other section
of two-color AB yarn alternately. The length of such coarse details or
monochrome and AB yarns can be determined according to the requirements of the
later products, which can be long or short, coarse or fine, spacing can be thin
or dense, regular or irregular.
Spandex corespun yarn
The spandex core yarn is formed by feeding a stretched spandex filament
(generally 3~4 times stretched) between the middle roller and front roller of a
normal spinning machine and converging it with the drafted bearded yarn, and
wrapping the original ribbon-like fiber bearded yarn around the outside of the
spandex yarn through the front roller.
This kind of yarn is generally 12-30tex (33-83 counts), can be used for
knitted fabrics or woven fabrics, fabrics are elastic, comfortable to wear. At
present, most of the spandex corespun yarn is cotton covered with ammonia, there
are also polyester covered with ammonia.
Spandex corespun yarn can also be produced on double-roller twisting
machine or special covering machine, spandex will be covered with a layer of
cotton yarn or nylon filament; some wrapped with silk for silk T-shirt collar,
due to the contraction of spandex silk, can make the knitted collar stiff.
Polyester corespun yarn
Polyester corespun yarn is formed by feeding a high-strength polyester
filament yarn between the middle roller and the front roller on an ordinary yarn
machine, and then wrapping the original ribbon fiber around the surface of the
polyester filament yarn through the front roller.
The yarn can be made into high-strength polyester sewing thread by
combining strands, which is not only strong, but also has a layer of cotton
fiber on the surface, so that it is not easy to heat up when passing through the
needle eye of a high-speed sewing machine. This yarn can also be woven into
canvas for transportation belt, not only high strength, and the surface of the
cotton fibers and rubber bonding performance, to overcome the shortcomings of
polyester and rubber affinity. Polyester-cotton corespun yarn can be used as
polyester-cotton roving fabric.
Stainless steel wire corespun yarn
The spinning method is similar to that of polyester corespun yarn, but the
process should pay attention to the rewinding of stainless steel wire rolls to
use radial positive rewinding method. Woven with this corespun yarn is generally
used as weft yarn, and ordinary yarn 1:1 arrangement or 1:2 arrangement.
This kind of fabric can be used in the national defense of the radar
coverings, can also be used for civilian radiation protection work clothes or
aprons, etc., has a wide range of uses.
These yarns are made of stainless steel wire drawn into 8,000 to 1,000
bundles (6-8μm in diameter), and then blended with cotton to form yarns by
drawing and breaking them into fibers on a drawing machine. Warp and weft with
this kind of yarn fabric is very good radiation resistance and shielding effect,
can be used for national defense and civilian use. If the cotton fiber is burned
off with fire, it is a very thin layer of stainless steel mesh.
Bamboo yarn is a device added to the normal yarn machine, so that the front
roller changes speed or stops, thus changing the normal draft multiplier and
suddenly producing a thick knot in the normal yarn, like a bamboo knot, thus
called bamboo yarn. Similarly, the middle and rear rollers can be suddenly
overfed, which also changes the draft multiplier and creates bamboo knots.
At present, the density of bamboo yarn is 12-83ex (12-83 counts), raw
materials are cotton, chemical fiber blends, etc., mainly staple fiber, but also
medium-length and wool fiber. The length of the bamboo knot generally can not be
less than the length of the fiber, the length of the bamboo knot of the cotton
fiber is longer than the length of the bamboo knot of the short thousand type
fiber.
The thickness of bamboo knot depends on the variety, the smallest bamboo
knot is about 1 times thicker than the base yarn, with this bamboo knot yarn and
a normal yarn with the same number of special combined to make clothing fabrics,
the surface of the fabric can show irregular patterns.
Bamboo yarn with 4~5 times thicker than the base yarn is often wrapped with
a finer yarn or filament because the difference between the thickness of the
thick section and the base yarn is too great and the twist at the thick section
is very small, which makes the yarn easy to hairy and low strength, and this
shortcoming can be overcome by wrapping a yarn.
The fabric woven with this yarn has a rough surface and unique style; it is
also used to make wave yarn on a fancy twisting machine, which is also called
popcorn yarn because the wave shape at the thick section is very large and
resembles corn.
There are single-color and two-color bamboo yarns, and the two-color bamboo
yarn is also spun on a modified spinning machine. Two different colored rovings,
one from the back roller is fed into the groove of the rubber roller of the
middle roller into the front roller to form a drafting area with the front
roller, and the other roving is fed from the back of the middle roller to form a
drafting area with the front roller, and the two-color bamboo yarn is produced
by overfeeding on the basis of spinning two-color yarn.
This kind of yarn spinning method is in the middle roller and the back
roller each feed a different color (can also be different dyeing properties) of
the roving, the middle roller and the back roller are separate drive, such as
the middle roller and the front roller spinning A yarn, the back roller
intermittently send out B yarn, this section is formed AB yarn, when sending B
yarn A yarn should be slowed down, in order to ensure that the dry uniform.
The spinning principle is the same as double-color bamboo yarn, which is
also spun on the modified spinning machine. The middle roller and the back
roller each send out a different color roving, and the two pairs of rollers
alternate in sending out the yarn. If the middle roller sends out A color
roving, by the front roller draw spinning out a section of A yarn; when A yarn
stop, the back roller began to send B color roving spun into a section of B
yarn. The length of each color yarn can be set by the program.
The main difference between this yarn and the bamboo yarn is that the
thicker and longer knots and the shorter details. Generally, bamboo yarn has
fewer bamboo knots, only about two knots in 1m, and they are very short, so
bamboo yarn is mainly the base yarn, and bamboo knots play a role in
embellishment. And big belly yarn with thick section mainly, highlighting the
big belly, and the length of the thick details vary greatly. At present, the
commonly used yarn is 100 ~ 1000 (1-10 counts), using raw materials such as wool
and acrylic and other wool-type long fibers.
The yarn with dots of various colors attached to the surface of the yarn is
called colored dot yarn. There are light-colored dots on dark-colored base yarns
and dark-colored dots on light-colored base yarns. This kind of colored dots
generally use various kinds of short fiber first rolled into particles, after
dyeing in spinning added. Whether cotton spinning equipment or rough comb wool
spinning equipment can be rolled into colored wool particles.
Because of the addition of short fiber particles, so the yarn is generally
spun thicker, its line density of 100 ~ 250tex (4 ~ 10 male), this type of yarn
in the rough combing tweed with more, such as coarse tweed in the fire of the
Muzi Ben (steel tweed), etc., are woven with colored dot yarn. Also use
polyester staple fiber rolled into particles, mixed in the cotton yarn, woven
into cloth after dyeing with room temperature.
Because polyester to high temperature and high pressure disperse dyes to
color, so the surface of the fabric to generate a star-like white dots, unique
style. There are also dark-colored particles added to light-colored fabrics to
make colorful dots on the surface of the fabric, which has a unique style.
This kind of yarn is similar to the color dot yarn, but it only uses one
color of dots, such as spinning polyester yarn with particles made of cotton or
viscose fiber. If this yarn is dyed with disperse dyestuff after weaving
polyester, the cotton is not colored, and it shows white stars. With this kind
of yarn and ordinary yarn in the warp direction at a certain spacing, dyeing
will generate stripes, and if added to the weft spacing will generate
lattice.
Unlike segmental dyeing, this yarn is first dyed with a lighter color, such
as peach red, light blue, light green, goose yellow, etc., and then printed with
darker colored knots, usually with a length of about 10mm per knot and a larger
spacing.
Dyeing multiple colors on the same yarn is called segmental dyeing,
generally 4-6 colors for one yarn. Its application in the fancy yarn, can be
used for big belly yarn, coarse special hair yarn, coarse knot and waveform yarn
composite fancy yarn, also use the segment-dyed yarn and then processed fancy
yarn for decorative yarn, made of colorful circle line (Figure 3), and also used
as a solid yarn to make colorful. Most of these fancy yarns are used for knitted
products, which is a major product that has been developing rapidly in recent
years. Segment dyeing is also very effective on regular flat yarns.
This is a traditional method of dyeing fancy yarns in China, which is to
divide a twisted yarn into two or three sections and tie them tightly with
cotton yarn rope (the rope thickness is usually 5mm), the length of which
depends on the variety, usually about 30mm. Because each section of white knot
is not equal in length, the fabric made has a natural and casual style.